Question:
how can i learn to drive a stick shift car? can someone walk me through step by step!!!!?
Allie
2007-10-16 20:36:46 UTC
how can i learn to drive a stick shift car? can someone walk me through step by step!!!!?
Nine answers:
Evgeni
2007-10-16 20:39:56 UTC
HOLY GOD! FIRST ANSWER!



Just post the damn link!
Doug R
2007-10-17 05:08:19 UTC
OK, let's say you have a 5 speed manual transmission. There are three pedals on the floor of the car. The furthest left is the clutch pedal - depressing this pedal disengages the engine from the transmission gear train. The center pedal is the brake, and the pedal furthest right is the accelerator pedal. To start the car, the clutch pedal must be depressed (push it all the way down each time). With the clutch pushed in, start the car. Move the shifter to 1st gear. Slowly let out on the clutch while gradually pushing down on the accelerator to get the car moving. You will need to work on this to make a smooth start, so practice your smooth starts before you get out too far on the road. Don't let out on the clutch too fast, and concentrate on giving the car just enough gas to keep adequate power without racing the engine (you'll get the hang of it). After you have accelerated to about 10mph, depress the clutch letting off of the gas pedal at the same time. Shift quickly to 2nd gear and let out on the clutch while pressing the accelerator pedal to gain speed. Continue through the gears until you reach 5th gear, then accelerate to road speed. The main thing to remember is to coordinate your actuation of the clutch and the accelerator pedal. When you have it right, you will not race the engine, you will not allow your foot to rest on the clutch pedal while in gear, and you will not be grinding the gears. Practice makes perfect, so get in an empty parking lot and practice away before you commit to traffic which introduces interaction that requires you to be proficient at shifting. Get a real good friend to help you learn - they can give you on the spot correction that will get you going faster. Good luck and happy travelling.
Justin H
2007-10-17 03:49:17 UTC
The best way to learn is to get someone with a stick shift to take you to a wide open parking lot and let you practice.



Driving a stick is pretty basic, it just takes a little coordination.



-When you're at a stop, you must have the clutch peddle pushed down or the gear shift must be in neutral. Otherwise the car will stall.



-When you are ready to take off, push in the clutch, put the gear shifter into 1 or R and then slowly release the clutch as you push the gas. Ideally you want to start pushing the gas first to get up to 1000+ RPM and then start releasing the clutch. Expect you will jump or lurch forward when you first start doing this, but it won't take long to learn to do it right.



-While driving, when the RPMs get up to 3500-4000 you want to quickly push in the clutch and move the gear shifter from 1 to 2 (usually straight down). Then repeat going up to 3 (usually up-then slightly right-then up again).



-Slowing down is a little more tricky - but not hard. Start breaking (or take your foot off the gas) and when you see the RPMs drop to around 1500, push in the clutch and shift down from 3 to 2. Then release the clutch while pushing down on the gas.



- Repeat the step above to shift down from 2 to 1. When you come to a stop you need to remember to push in the clutch or the car will stall.



Once you get the hang of these basics and can do them smoothly every time, you want to try starting on a hill (both uphill and downhill).
nyeviolet
2007-10-17 03:39:36 UTC
I learned at 2 in the am, on a fairly deserted 45 mile stretch of curvy highway. I highly recommend it. Just get in and try till you get it right.
arye
2007-10-17 04:01:43 UTC
wow, your explanation is long.

Learn in a quiet environment

press the clutch every time you want to shift gears

on first gear, press the throttle and release the clutch really slowly.
2007-10-17 03:42:20 UTC
Have someone who knows how to drive one teach you.

You can read all you want but there is no substitute for experience.
hotvw1914cc
2007-10-17 03:54:09 UTC
Never have I seen a question with so much needless details in the answers.
2007-10-17 03:43:54 UTC
The earliest vehicle transmissions were entirely mechanical unsynchronized [citation needed] gearing systems. They could be shifted, with multiple gear ratios available to the operator, and even had reverse. However, the gears were engaged by sliding mechanisms or simple clutches, which required a lot of careful timing and throttle manipulation when shifting, so that the gears would be spinning at roughly the same speed when engaged; otherwise, the teeth would refuse to mesh.



When upshifting, the speed of the gear driven by the engine had to drop to match the speed of the next gear; as this happened naturally when the clutch was depressed or disengaged, it was just a matter of skill and experience to hear and feel when the gears managed to mesh. However, when downshifting, the gear driven by the engine had to be sped up to mesh with the output gear, requiring letting the clutch up (engagement) for the engine to speed up the gears. Double declutching, that is, shifting once to neutral to speed up the gears and again to the lower gear, is sometimes needed. In fact, such transmissions are often easier to shift without using the clutch at all. When using this method, the driver has to time the shift with relative precision to avoid grinding the gears. The clutch, in these cases, is only used for starting from a standstill. This procedure is common in racing vehicles and most production motorcycles.



Even though automotive transmissions are now almost universally synchronised, heavy trucks and machinery as well as dedicated racing transmissions are usually non-synchromesh transmissions, known colloquially as "crashboxes", for several reasons. The friction material, such as brass, in synchronizers is more prone to wear and breakage than gears, which are forged steel, and the simplicity of the mechanism improves reliability and reduces cost. In addition, the process of shifting a synchromesh transmission is slower than that of shifting a non-synchromesh transmission. For racing of production-based transmissions, sometimes half the teeth (or "dogs") on the synchros are removed to speed the shifting process, at the expense of greater wear.



Heavy duty trucks utilize unsynchronized transmissions in the interest of saving weight. Military edition trucks, which do not have to obey weight laws, usually have a synchronized transmission. Highway use heavy-duty trucks in the United States are limited to 80,000 pounds GVWR, and the lighter the curb weight for the truck, the more cargo can be carried, and with a synchronizer adding weight to a truck that could otherwise be used to carry cargo, most drivers are simply taught how to double clutch.



Similarly, most modern motorcycles still utilize unsynchronised transmissions as synchronisers are generally not necessary or desirable. Their low gear inertias and higher strengths mean that 'forcing' the gears to alter speed is not damaging, and the selector method on modern motorcycles (pedal operated) is not conducive to having the long shift time of a synchronised gearbox. Because of this, it is still necessary to synchronise gear speeds by "blipping" the throttle when shifting into a lower gear on a motorcycle.





Synchronized transmission



Top and side view of a typical manual transmission, in this case a Ford "Toploader", used in cars with external floor shifters.Modern gearboxes are constant mesh, i.e. all gears are always in mesh. Only one of these meshed pairs of gears is locked to the shaft on which it is mounted at any one time, while the others are allowed to rotate freely. Thus, it greatly reduces the skill required to shift gears.



Most modern cars are fitted with a synchronized gear box, although it is entirely possible to construct a constant mesh gearbox without a synchromesh, as found in a motorcycle, for example. In a constant mesh gearbox, the transmission gears are always in mesh and rotating, but the gears are not rigidly connected to the shafts on which they rotate. Instead, the gears can freely rotate or be locked to the shaft on which they are carried. The locking mechanism for any individual gear consists of a collar (or "dog collar") on the shaft which is able to slide sideways so that teeth (or "dogs") on its inner surface bridge two circular rings with teeth on their outer circumference: one attached to the gear, one to the shaft (one collar typically serves for two gears; sliding in one direction selects one transmission speed, in the other direction selects the other). When the rings are bridged by the collar, that particular gear is rotationally locked to the shaft and determines the output speed of the transmission. In a synchromesh gearbox, to correctly match the speed of the gear to that of the shaft as the gear is engaged, the collar initially applies a force to a cone-shaped brass clutch which is attached to the gear, which brings the speeds to match prior to the collar locking into place. The collar is prevented from bridging the locking rings when the speeds are mismatched by synchro rings (also called blocker rings or balk rings, the latter being spelled "baulk" in the UK). The gearshift lever manipulates the collars using a set of linkages, so arranged so that one collar may be permitted to lock only one gear at any one time; when "shifting gears," the locking collar from one gear is disengaged and that of another engaged. In a modern gearbox, the action of all of these components is so smooth and fast it is hardly noticed.



The first synchronized transmission system was introduced by Cadillac in 1929[citation needed]. The modern cone system was developed by Porsche and introduced in the 1952 Porsche 356; cone synchronizers were called "Porsche-type" for many years after this. In the early 1950s only the second-third shift was synchromesh in most cars, requiring only a single synchro and a simple linkage; drivers' manuals in cars suggested that if the driver needed to shift from second to first, it was best to come to a complete stop then shift into first and start up again. With continuing sophistication of mechanical development, however, fully synchromesh transmissions with three speeds, then four speeds, five speeds, six speeds and so on became universal by the 1960s. Reverse gear, however, is usually not synchromesh, as there is only one reverse gear in the normal automotive transmission and changing gears in reverse is not required.





Internals



Shafts

Like other transmissions, a manual transmission has several shafts with various gears and other components attached to them. Typically, a rear-wheel-drive transmission has three shafts: an input shaft, a countershaft and an output shaft. The countershaft is sometimes called a layshaft.



In a rear-wheel-drive transmission, the input and output shaft lie along the same line, and may in fact be combined into a single shaft within the transmission. This single shaft is called a mainshaft. The input and output ends of this combined shaft rotate independently, at different speeds, which is possible because one piece slides into a hollow bore in the other piece, where it is supported by a bearing. Sometimes the term mainshaft refers to just the input shaft or just the output shaft, rather than the entire assembly.



In some transmissions, it's possible for the input and output components of the mainshaft to be locked together to create a 1:1 gear ratio, causing the power flow to bypass the countershaft. The mainshaft then behaves like a single, solid shaft, a situation referred to as direct drive.



Even in transmissions that do not feature direct drive, it's an advantage for the input and output to lie along the same line, because this reduces the amount of torsion that the transmission case has to bear.



Under one possible design, the transmission's input shaft has just one pinion gear, which drives the countershaft. Along the countershaft are mounted gears of various sizes, which rotate when the input shaft rotates. These gears correspond to the forward speeds and reverse. Each of the forward gears on the countershaft is permanently meshed with a corresponding gear on the output shaft. However, these driven gears are not rigidly attached to the output shaft: although the shaft runs through them, they spin independently of it, which is made possible by bearings in their hubs. Reverse is typically implemented differently, see the section on Reverse.



Most front-wheel-drive transmissions for transverse engine mounting are designed differently. For one thing, they have an integral final drive and differential. For another, they usually have only two shafts; input and countershaft, sometimes called input and output. The input shaft runs the whole length of the gearbox, and there is no separate input pinion. At the end of the second (counter/output) shaft is a pinion gear that mates with the ring gear on the differential.



Front-wheel and rear-wheel-drive transmissions operate similarly. When the transmission is in neutral, and the clutch is disengaged, the input shaft, clutch disk and countershaft can continue to rotate under their own inertia. In this state, the engine, the input shaft and clutch, and the output shaft all rotate independently.





Dog clutch

The gear selector does not engage or disengage the actual gear teeth which are permanently meshed. Rather, the action of the gear selector is to lock one of the freely spinning gears to the shaft that runs through its hub. The shaft then spins together with that gear. The output shaft's speed relative to the countershaft is determined by the ratio of the two gears: the one permanently attached to the countershaft, and that gear's mate which is now locked to the output shaft.



Locking the output shaft with a gear is achieved by means of a dog clutch selector. The dog clutch is a sliding selector mechanism which is splined to the output shaft, meaning that its hub has teeth that fit into slots (splines) on the shaft, forcing it to rotate with that shaft. However, the splines allow the selector to move back and forth on the shaft, which happens when it is pushed by a selector fork that is linked to the gear lever. The fork does not rotate, so it is attached to a collar bearing on the selector. The selector is typically symmetric: it slides between two gears and has a synchromesh and teeth on each side in order to lock either gear to the shaft.





Synchromesh

If the teeth, the so-called dog teeth, make contact with the gear, but the two parts are spinning at different speeds, the teeth will fail to engage and a loud grinding sound will be heard as they clatter together. For this reason, a modern dog clutch in an automobile has a synchronizer mechanism or synchromesh, where before the teeth can engage, a cone clutch is engaged which brings the selector and gear to the same speed. Moreover, until synchronization occurs, the teeth are prevented from making contact, because further motion of the selector is prevented by a blocker (or "baulk") ring. When synchronization occurs, friction on the blocker ring is relieved and it twists slightly, bringing into alignment certain grooves and notches that allow further passage of the selector which brings the teeth together. Of course, the exact design of the synchronizer varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.



The synchronizer[1] has to change the momentum of the entire input shaft and clutch disk. Additionally, it can be abused by exposure to the momentum and power of the engine itself, which is what happens when attempts are made to select a gear without fully disengaging the clutch. This causes extra wear on the rings and sleeves, reducing their service life. When an experimenting driver tries to "match the revs" on a synchronized transmission and force it into gear without using the clutch, the synchronizer will make up for any discrepancy in RPM. The success in engaging the gear without clutching can deceive the driver into thinking that the RPM of the layshaft and transmission were actually exactly matched. Nevertheless, approximate "rev-matching" with clutching can decrease the general delta between layshaft and transmission and decrease synchro wear.





Reverse

The previous discussion applies to the forward gears. The implementation of the reverse gear is usually different, implemented in the following way to reduce the cost of the transmission. Reverse is also a pair of gears: one gear on the countershaft and one on the output shaft. However, whereas all the forward gears are always meshed together, there is a gap between the reverse gears. Moreover, they are both attached to their shafts: neither one rotates freely about the shaft. What happens when reverse is selected is that a small gear, called an idler gear or reverse idler, is slid between them. The idler has teeth which mesh with both gears, and thus it couples these gears together and reverses the direction of rotation without changing the gear ratio.



Thus, in other words, when reverse gear is selected, in fact it is actual gear teeth that are being meshed, with no aid from a synchronization mechanism. For this reason, the output shaft must not be rotating when reverse is selected: the car must be stopped. In order that reverse can be selected without grinding even if the input shaft is spinning inertially, there may be a mechanism to stop the input shaft from spinning. The driver brings the vehicle to a stop, and selects reverse. As that selection is made, some mechanism in the transmission stops the input shaft. Both gears are stopped and the idler can be inserted between them. There is a clear description of such a mechanism in the Honda Civic 1996-1998 Service Manual, which refers to it as a "noise reduction system":



Whenever the clutch pedal is depressed to shift into reverse, the mainshaft continues to rotate because of its inertia. The resulting speed difference between mainshaft and reverse idler gear produces gear noise [grinding]. The reverse gear noise reduction system employs a cam plate which was added to the reverse shift holder. When shifting into reverse, the 5th/reverse shift piece, connected to the shift lever, rotates the cam plate. This causes the 5th synchro set to stop the rotating mainshaft. (13-4)

A reverse gear implemented this way makes a loud whining sound, which is not heard in the forward gears. The teeth on the forward gears of consumer automobiles are helically cut. When helical gears rotate, their teeth slide together, which results in quiet operation. In spite of all forward gears being always meshed, they do not make a sound that can be easily heard above the engine noise. By contrast, reverse gears are spur gears, meaning that they have straight teeth, in order to allow for the sliding engagement of the idler, which would not be possible with helical gears. The teeth of spur gears clatter together when the gears spin, generating a characteristic whine.



It is clear that the spur gear design of reverse gear represents some compromises—less robust, unsynchronized engagement and loud noise—which are acceptable due to the relatively small amount of driving that takes place in reverse. However, many modern transmissions now include a reverse gear synchronizer and helical gearing.





Design Variations



Gear Variety

Manual transmissions are often equipped with 4, 5, or 6 forward gears. Nearly all have one reverse gear. In three or four speed transmissions, in most cases, the topmost gear is "direct", i.e. a 1:1 ratio. For five speed or higher transmissions, the highest gear is usually an overdrive gear, with a ratio of less than 1:1. Older cars were generally equipped with 3-speed transmissions, or 4-speed transmissions for high performance models and 5-speeds for the most sophisticated of automobiles; in the 1970s, 5-speed transmissions began to appear in low priced mass market automobiles and even compact pickup trucks, pioneered by Toyota (who advertised the fact by giving each model the suffix SR5 as it acquired the fifth speed). Today, mass market automotive manual transmissions are essentially all 5-speeds, with 6-speed transmissions beginning to emerge in high performance vehicles in the early 1990s, and recently beginning to be offered on some high-efficiency and conventional passenger cars. A very small number of 7-speed 'manual derived' transmissions are offered on extremely high-end performance cars (supercars), such as the Bugatti Veyron 16.4, or the BMW M5. Both of these cars feature a "Paddle Shifter".





External Overdrive

On earlier models with three or four forward speeds, the lack of an overdrive ratio for relaxed and fuel-efficient highway cruising was often filled by incorporating a separate overdrive unit in the rear housing of the transmission. This unit was separately actuated by a knob or button, often incorporated into the gearshift knob.





Shaft and Gear Configuration

The input shaft need not turn a pinion which rotates the countershaft. Another possibility is that gears are mounted on the input shaft itself, meshed with gears on the countershaft, in which case the countershaft then turns the output shaft. In other words, it's a matter of design on which shaft the driven and driving gears reside.



The distribution of the shifters is also a matter of design; it need not be the case that all of the free-rotating gears with selectors are on one shaft, and the permanently splined gears on the other. For instance a five speed transmission might have the first-to-second selectors on the countershaft, but the third-to-fourth selector and the fifth selector on the mainshaft, which is the configuration in the 1998 Honda Civic. This means that when the car is stopped and idling in neutral with the clutch engaged input shaft spinning, the third, fourth and fifth gear pairs do not rotate.



In some transmission designs (Volvo 850 and V/S70 series, for example) there are actually two countershafts, both driving an output pinion meshing with the front-wheel-drive transaxle's ring gear. This allows the transmission designer to make the transmission narrower, since each countershaft must be only half as long as a traditional countershaft with four gears and two shifters.





Clutch

In all vehicles using a transmission (virtually all modern vehicles), a coupling device is used to separate the engine and transmission when necessary. The clutch accomplishes this in manual transmissions. Without it, the engine and tires would at all times be inextricably linked, and anytime the vehicle stopped the engine perforce stall. Without the clutch, changing gears would be very difficult, even with the vehicle moving already: deselecting a gear while the transmission is under load requires considerable force, and selecting a gear requires the revolution speed of the engine to be held at a very precise value which depends on the vehicle speed and desired gear. In a car the clutch is usually operated by a pedal; on a motorcycle, a lever on the left handlebar serves the purpose.





Pedal setup on a 2007 Subaru Legacy. From left to right, the dead pedal, clutch pedal, brake, and accelerator.When the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the clutch is fully disengaged, and no torque is transferred from the engine to the transmission (and by extension to the drive wheels). In this uncoupled state it is possible to select gears or to stop the car without stopping the engine.

When the clutch pedal is fully released, the clutch is fully engaged, and practically all of the engine's torque is transferred. In this coupled state, the clutch does not slip, but rather acts as rigid coupling, and power is transmitted to the wheels with minimal practical waste heat.

Between these extremes of engagement and disengagement the clutch slips to varying degrees. When the clutch slips it still transmits torque despite the difference in speeds between the engine crankshaft and the transmission input. Because this torque is transmitted by means of friction rather than direct mechanical contact, considerable power is wasted as heat (which is dissipated by the clutch). Properly applied, slip allows the vehicle to be started from a standstill, and when it is already moving, allows the engine rotation to gradually adjust to a newly selected gear ratio.

Because of the heat that a slipping clutch generates, slip should not be maintained beyond necessity; skilled drivers rarely allow a clutch to slip for more large fraction of a second or so. [citation needed] Learning to use the clutch efficiently requires the development of muscle memory and a level of co-ördination analogous to that required to learn a musical instrument or to play a sport.

A rider of a highly-tuned motocross or off-road motorcycle may "hit" or "fan" the clutch when exiting corners to assist the engine in revving to point where it makes the best power.

Note: Automatic transmissions also use a coupling device; however, a clutch is not present. In these kinds of vehicles, the torque converter is used to separate the engine and transmission.



Gear selection



Floor-mounted shifter

In most modern cars, gears are selected through a lever attached to the floor of the automobile—this selector is often called a gearstick, gear lever, gear selector, or simply shifter. Moving this lever forward, backward, left, and right allows the driver to select any given gear. In this configuration, the gear lever must be pushed laterally before it is pushed longitudinally.





5 speed shift stick of a 1999 Mazda Protege.A sample layout of a four-speed transmission is shown below. N marks neutral, or the position where no gears are engaged. In reality, the entire horizontal line is a neutral position, although the shifter is usually equipped with springs so that it will return to the N position if not left in another gear. The R denotes reverse, which is technically a fifth gear on this transmission.





This layout is called the shift pattern. Because of the shift quadrants, the basic arrangement is often called an H-pattern. While the layout for gears one through four is nearly universal, the location of reverse is not. Reverse can be found outside of the quadrant at the upper left (late 1960s GM models and AMC models, 1960s-1980s Ford Europe models, and current VW/Audi models), lower left (Toyota Land Cruiser FJ, Ferrari), the lower right (Jeep CJ7, Datsun models, and Honda Civic), or upper right (Corvette), so caution is always warranted in gear selection. The shift pattern for a specific transmission is usually molded on the gear knob.



The image below shows the most common five-speed layout found in the USA and the UK.





This layout is reasonably intuitive because it starts at the upper left and works top to bottom, left to right, with reverse far away and toward the rear of the car. There is usually a mechanism that only allows selection of reverse from the neutral position, so reverse will be less likely to be accidentally chosen when downshifting from 5th to 4th (or by someone used to a 6-speed transmission and trying to shift from 5th to the non-existent 6th).





This five-speed layout, found on a number of older models and race cars, is commonly referred to as a "dog-leg first" or "racing" pattern, because of the "up and over" 1-2 shift. Its use was common on race cars and sports cars in the days before six and seven speed transmissions. By putting 4th and 5th on the same vertical plane, shifting at high speed becomes easier and faster. Conversely, the long, offset 1-2 shift can have a notable effect on a car's initial acceleration, especially in 0-60 mph time tests.



This gear pattern can also be found on some heavy vehicles where 1st gear is a crawler gear and would see little normal use.



Another five-speed shift pattern (common on many European cars) is this:





Transmissions equipped with this shift pattern usually feature a lockout mechanism that requires the driver to depress a switch or the entire gear lever when entering reverse, so that reverse is not accidentally selected when trying to find first gear. This style of pattern (including depressing the gear lever) is common on BMWs, Opels, most Volkswagens (though some have reverse towards second gear,) older Volvo 240s and some Renault models (12, 9, 19, 5, Mégane, Twingo and Clio).



A typical pattern for the more modern six-speed transmission is shown here





A six-speed manual transmission (seven speeds with reverse) is widely considered to be the largest number of gears that can be contained within a variation of the "H" shift pattern. Note that reverse is placed outside of the "H", with a canted shift leg. This is to prevent the shift lever from intruding too far into the driver's footwell (in left-hand drive cars) when reverse is selected. This is the most common layout for a six-speed manual transmission.



Most front-engined, rear-wheel drive cars have a transmission that sits between the driver and the front passenger seat. Floor-mounted shifters are often connected directly to the transmission. Front-wheel drive and rear-engined cars often require a mechanical linkage to connect the shifter to the transmission.



Historically, 4-speed floor shifters were sometimes referred to as "Four on the Floor", when steering column mounted shifters were more common.





Column-mounted shifter

Some cars have a gear lever mounted on the steering column of the car. It was common in the past but is no longer common today. However, many automatic transmissions still use this placement.



Column shifters are mechanically similar to floor shifters, although shifting occurs in a vertical plane instead of a horizontal one. Column shifters also generally involve additional linkages to connect the shifter with the transmission. Also, the pattern is not "intuitive," as the shifter has to be moved backward and upward into R to make the car go backward.



A 3-speed column shifter, nicknamed "Three on the Tree" (alternatively, "Three in the Tree"), began appearing in America in the late 1930s and became common during the 1940s and 50's. Its layout is as shown below:





First gear in a 3-speed is often called "low," while third is usually called "high." There is, of course, no overdrive. Later European and Japanese models began to have 4-speed column shifter and some of these made their way to the USA. Its layout is shown here:





However, the column manual shifter disappeared in America by the late 1970s. But in the rest of the world, the column mounted shifter continued to be made, and was in fact common in some places. For example, all Toyota Crown and Nissan Cedric taxis in Hong Kong had the 4-speed column shift until 1999 when automatic began to be offered. Since the late 1980s or early 1990s, 5-speed column shifter has been made in some vans sold in Asia and Europe, such as Toyota Hiace and Mitsubishi L400.





Sequential manual

Some transmissions do not allow the driver to arbitrarily select any gear. Instead, the driver may only ever select the next-lowest or next-highest gear ratio. These transmissions often provide clutch control, but the clutch is only necessary when selecting first or reverse gear from neutral. Most gear changes can be performed without the clutch.



Sequential transmissions are generally controlled by a forward-backward lever, foot pedal, or set of paddles mounted behind the steering wheel. In some cases, these are connected mechanically to the transmission. In many modern examples, these controls are attached to sensors which instruct a transmission computer to perform a shift—many of these systems can be switched into an automatic mode, where the computer controls the timing of shifts, much like an automatic transmission.



Motorcycles typically employ sequential transmissions, although the shift pattern is modified slightly for safety reasons. In a motorcycle the gears are usually shifted with the left foot pedal, the layout being this:





The gear shift lever on a 2003 Suzuki SV650S motorcycle. 6

5 ┘

4 ┘

3 ┘

2 ┘

N

1





The pedal goes one step - both up and down - from the center, before it reaches its limit and has to be allowed to move back to the center position. Thus, changing multiple gears in one direction is accomplished by repeatedly pumping the pedal, either up or down. Although neutral is listed as being between first and second gears for this type of transmission, it "feels" more like first and second gear are just "further away" from each other than any other two sequential gears. Because this can lead to difficulty in finding neutral for inexperienced riders most motorcycles have a neutral indicator light on the instrument panel to help finding the neutral gear. The reason neutral does not actually have its own spot in the sequence is to make it quicker to shift from first to second when moving. You will not accidentally shift into neutral. The reason for having neutral between the first and second gears instead of at the bottom is that when stopped, the rider can just click down repeatedly and know that they will end up in first and not neutral.



On motorcycles used on race tracks, the shifting pattern is often reversed, that is, the rider clicks down to upshift. This usage pattern increases the ground clearance by placing the riders foot above the shift lever when the rider is most likely to need it, namely when leaning over and exiting a tight turn.



The shift pattern for most underbone motorcycles with automatic centrifugal clutch is also modified for 2 key reasons - to enable the less-experienced riders to shift the gears without problems of "finding" the neutral gear, and also due to more force needed to "lift" the gearshift lever (because gearshift pedal of an underbone motorcycle also operates the clutch). The gearshift lever of an underbone motorcycle has two ends, therefore the rider clicks down the front end with the left toe all the way to the top gear and clicks down the rear end with the heel all the way down to neutral. Some underbone models such as Honda Wave have "rotary" shift pattern, which means that the rider can shift directly to neutral from the top gear, but this is only possible when the motorcycle is stationary for safety reasons. Some models also have gear position indicators for all gear positions at the instrument panel.





Semi-manual

Some new transmissions (Fiat's Selespeed gearbox and BMW's Sequential Manual Gearbox (SMG) for example) are conventional manual transmissions with a computerized control mechanism. These transmissions feature independently selectable gears but do not have a clutch pedal. Instead, the transmission computer controls a servo which disengages the clutch when necessary.



These transmissions vary from sequential transmissions in that they still allow nonsequential shifts: BMWs SMG system, for example, can shift from 6th gear directly to 4th gear when decelerating from high speeds.





Comparison with automatic transmissions

Manual transmissions are typically compared to automatic transmissions, as the two represent the majority of options available to the typical consumer. These comparisons are general guidelines and may not apply in certain circumstances. Additionally, the recent popularity of semi-manual and semi-automatic transmissions renders many of these points obsolete. It should be kept in mind that some of these points are true of "conventional" automatic transmissions which shift gears and are coupled to the engine with a torque converter but are not a true comparison or do not apply to other kinds of automatic transmissions, like the continuously-variable transmission.





Advantages

Manual transmissions typically offer better fuel economy compared to automatics.[2] Increased fuel economy with a properly operated manual transmission vehicle versus an equivalent automatic transmission vehicle can range from 5% to about 15% depending on driving conditions and style of driving -- extra urban or urban (highway or city). There are several reasons for this:

Mechanical efficiency. The manual transmission couples the engine to the transmission with a rigid clutch instead of a torque converter that introduces significant power losses. The automatic transmission also suffers parasitic losses by driving the high pressure hydraulic pumps required for its operation.

Driver control. Certain fuel-saving modes of operation simply do not occur in an automatic transmission vehicle, but are accessible to the manual transmission driver. For example, the manual-transmission vehicle can be accelerated gently, yet at wide open throttle (WOT), by means of shifting early to a higher gear, keeping the engine RPM in a low power band. By contrast, in an automatic transmission, the throttle position serves as the indicator of how fast the driver wishes to accelerate. If the accelerator pedal is floored, the transmission will shift to a lower gear, resulting in high engine RPM and aggressive acceleration. The thermodynamically efficient combination of open throttle and low RPMs is unavailable to the automatic transmission driver. Fuel-efficient acceleration is important to achieving fuel economy in stop-and-go city driving.[3]

Fuel cut-off. The torque converter of the automatic transmission is designed for transmitting power from the engine to the wheels. Its ability to transmit power in the reverse direction is limited. During deceleration, if the torque converter's rotation drops beneath its stall speed, the momentum of the car can no longer turn the engine, requiring the engine to be idled. By contrast, a manual transmission, with the clutch engaged, can use the car's momentum to keep the engine turning, in principle, all the way down to zero RPM. This means that there are better opportunities, in a manual car, for the electronic control unit (ECU) to impose deceleration fuel cut-off (DFCO), a fuel-saving mode whereby the fuel injectors are turned off if the throttle is closed (foot off the accelerator pedal) and the engine is being driven by the momentum of the vehicle. Automatics further reduce opportunities for DFCO by shifting to a higher gear when the accelerator pedal is released, causing the RPM to drop.[citation needed]

Geartrain efficiency. Automatics may require power to be transmitted through multiple planetary gearsets before attaining the desired gear ratio. In comparison, manual transmissions usually transmit power through one or two gearsets at most.[citation needed]

Manual transmissions are still more efficient than belt-driven continuously-variable transmissions.[4][5]

Manual transmissions are generally significantly lighter than torque-converter automatics.[2]

Vehicles with manual transmissions are typically less expensive than those with automatic transmissions.

Manual transmissions generally require less maintenance than automatic transmissions.[citation needed]

Manual transmissions normally do not require active cooling, because not much power is dissipated as heat through the transmission.[5]

The heat issue can be important in certain situations, like climbing long hills in hot weather, particularly if pulling a load. Unless the automatic's torque converter is locked up (which typically only happens in an overdrive gear that would not be engaged when going up a hill) the transmission can overheat.[6] A manual transmission's clutch only generates heat when it slips, which does not happen unless the driver is riding the clutch pedal.

A driver has more direct control over the state of the transmission with a manual than an automatic. This control is important to an experienced, knowledgeable driver who knows the correct procedure for executing a driving maneuver, and wants the machine to realise his or her intentions exactly and instantly. Manual transmissions are particularly advantageous for performance driving or driving on steep and winding roads. Note that this advantage applies equally to manual-automatic transmissions, such as tiptronic, provided they have a quick reaction time to driver input.

An example: the driver, anticipating a turn, can downshift to the appropriate gear while the steering is still straight, and stay in gear through the turn. This is the correct, safe way to execute a turn. An unanticipated change of gear during a sharp turn can cause skidding if the road is slippery.

Another example: when starting, the driver can control how much torque goes to the tires, which is useful for starting on slippery surfaces such as ice, snow or mud. This can be done with clutch finesse, or possibly by starting in second gear instead of first. The driver of an automatic can only put the car into drive, and play with the throttle. The torque converter can easily dump too much torque into the wheels, because when it slips, it acts as an extra low gear, passing through the engine power, reducing the rotations while multiplying torque. An automatic equipped with ESC, however, does not have this disadvantage.[citation needed] Some cars, such as the Saab NG900 Automatic transmission, have a special mode for low traction situations.

Yet another example: passing. When the driver is attempting to pass a slower moving vehicle by making use of a lane with opposite traffic, he or she can select a lower gear for more power at exactly the right moment when conditions are right to begin the maneuver. Automatics have a delayed reaction time, because the driver can only indicate his intent by pressing the throttle. The skilled manual transmission driver has an advantage of superior finesse and confidence in such situations.

Driving a manual requires more involvement from the driver, thereby discouraging some dangerous practices. The manual selection of gears requires the driver to monitor the road and traffic situation, anticipate events and plan a few steps ahead. If the driver's mind wanders from the driving task, the machine will soon end up in an incorrect gear, which will be obvious from excessive or insufficient engine RPM. Related points:

It's much more difficult for the driver to fidget in a manual transmission car, for instance by eating, drinking beverages, or talking on a cellular phone without a headset. During gear shifts, two hands are required. One stays on the wheel, and the other operates the gear lever. The hand on the wheel is absolutely required during turns, and tight turns are accompanied by gear changes. If the hand leaves the wheel, the steering will begin to straighten. In general, the more demanding the driving situation, the more difficult it is for the manual driver to do anything but operate the vehicle. The driver of an automatic transmission can engage in distracting activities in any situation, such as sharp turns through intersections or stop-and-go traffic.

The driver of a manual transmission car can develop an accurate intuition for how fast the car is traveling, from the sound of the motor and the gear selection. It's easier to observe the lower speed limits—like 30 km/h and 50 km/h or their U.S. and Imperial counterparts, 20 mph and 30 mph—without glancing at the instrumentation.

Cars with manual transmissions can often be started when the battery is dead by pushing the car into motion or allowing it to roll downhill, and then engaging the clutch in third or second gear. This is commonly known as a "push start", "popping the clutch" (in the USA), "crash starting" (in New Zealand), "roll starting" (in Australia) or Bump starting in the UK , describes the action of suddenly releasing the clutch pedal after putting it in gear. Note that this is not always possible with a truly dead battery due to theft-deterrent mechanisms and steering wheel locks. If not, a potential thief could drain the battery then push-start the vehicle.

Manual transmissions work regardless of the orientation angle of the car with respect to gravity. Automatic transmissions have a fluid reservoir (pan) at the bottom; if the car is tilted too much, the fluid pump can be starved, causing a failure in the hydraulics. This could matter in some extreme off roading circumstances where gravity pulls the fluid away from the reservoir, or when high cornering forces force the fluid to pool on one side.[citation needed]

It is sometimes possible to move a vehicle with a manual transmission just by putting it in gear and cranking the starter. This is useful in an emergency situation where the vehicle will not start, but must be immediately moved (from an intersection or railroad crossing, for example). It is also easier to put a car with a manual transmission into neutral, even when the transmission has suffered damage from an accident or malfunction. Many modern vehicles will not allow the starter to be run without the clutch fully depressed, negating this advantage, but some manufacturers have begun to add a clutch start override switch so that this advantage may still be enjoyed when necessary.
stevenzhang199
2007-10-17 03:39:18 UTC
How to drive a manual transmission (stick shift) car



This tutorial starts with the assumption that you already have experience driving an automatic transmission car. In today's day and age, with the easy availability of automatic transmission cars, it is much easier to learn on an automatic. There are so many things to get used to when learning to drive, that trying to master a clutch and gearshift while trying to remember to stop in front of the stop sign or back into a parallel parking space seems a bit silly.



Read through the WHOLE tutorial first. Some things are hard to explain before others, but you need to see the whole picture before you first turn the key...



Preparation:



Obviously, you will need a stick-shift car. Your best bet is a car that is not new, nor one that has had the clutch recently replaced. Clutches are much "stickier" when new, and this makes learning more difficult. It's also better to learn in a smaller car, with a smaller engine. They are much easier to get going and to stop. Finally, choose a car with a floor-mount stick shift. Don't try to learn on a car that has the shifter on the steering column. Floor mounted stick shifts are more intuitive and easier to use.



You'll also want a couple good, safe places to practice. The first should be a large FLAT parking lot, preferably one with few lamp-posts so you don't have to concentrate so much on the "where you're going" while you are getting comfortable with shifting. The second should be a long straight section of low traffic roadway.



Practice on a a day where neither bad weather nor darkness are going to cause problems. If you are borrowing the car and the owner wants to come along, work out in advance that you might ask them questions, but your intent is to learn, and that you will be learning from a few mistakes along the way. In other words, they should keep quiet unless you ask for help. (I wish my grandfather followed those rules when he was trying to teach me to bowl!)



Let your friend (you don't think they're really going to let you borrow their car to learn without coming along do you?) drive the car to the middle of the parking lot, and have them shut it off in first with the parking brake on. Trade places and climb into the driver's seat.



The drivers seat - Getting a feel for the pedals:



Three pedals and a stick shift. And a parking brake. We'll get to the parking brake later - let's concentrate on the pedals and stick shift.

You already know two of the pedals - the gas and the brake. They work the same as they do in an automatic. So let's skip to the clutch. What the clutch pedal (far left) does is control the distance between two discs or "plates." One plate is connected to the engine, and has a big, flat surface. The other plate is connected to the transmission and is made of a material like fine sandpaper. The clutch pulls them apart when you press it in, and lets them touch each other when the pedal is up. So when you press in the clutch you separate the engine from the transmission. Since the pedal is not an on-off switch, you can control how quickly the two come together, letting one slip against the other for a bit, as you let the clutch pedal up. This "letting out the clutch" is the key to getting the car moving from a stop.



So, with the car still turned off, put your right foot on the brake pedal, and with your left, push the clutch to the floor. On some cars it is hard to press in, but most modern cars have a "light" clutch. A light clutch is usually what you want, because you're going to be pressing it in and slowly letting it out a lot. Practice pressing it to the floor somewhat quickly, then letting it back up slowly. It's not that hard to get used to.



Watch your hands - the gearshift:



Now check out the gearshift. In general, the gears are laid out like an H, with first in the upper left, second directly below it, third is to the right of first, fourth below it, and if there is a fifth, it is up to the right of third. Reverse is usually on the left side of the H, sometimes up, sometimes down. Usually you have to push the gear lever down into the floor before it will let you go into reverse. The pattern is usually marked on the top of the knob as well.



Now, with the car still off, your foot on the brake only, and the gearshift in first, try to pull it straight down into second. It probably won't budge. This is because when the clutch pedal is up, there is usually internal pressure against the gears that keep you from taking it out of a gear, as well as putting it in a gear. While we're on the topic, why did I suggest leaving the car in first gear when it was turned off at the beginning? The answer is that manual transmission cars don't have a "Park" gear. Instead, you leave the car in first gear, and the fact that the transmission is connected to the engine means that it can't turn while the engine is off. First gear is the best gear to do this in because higher gears could let the car move a bit if the engine turns just a tiny bit - first gear creates the greatest resistance. You may also ask why you need the parking brake as well? If you ever watched the Tom Cruise movie Risky Business, you'll know. Yes, in spite of all I've said above, it is possible to knock the lever out of first and into neutral, at which point the car can roll away. Down a hill. Out a dock. Into the lake. Very expensive.



Alright, let's get a bit more productive. Ignition turned off, right foot on the brake, push in the clutch and try moving the stick shift through the pattern, one gear at a time until you get to fifth, then back down again. Now try to find reverse. It is often hard to find. If you've been quiet so far, now might be the time to finally ask the owner something like "How the &*&$% do I get it into reverse?" They will tell you the secret, which depending on the make and model may involve a modified golf or bowling grip.



Stop it! - How to safely stop



Before you get to the part about moving, you need to get just a bit of experience stopping, otherwise your friend in the passenger seat will start clawing at the dash and screaming like crazy as you try to negotiate a hard left to avoid the one other car still parked in the lot.



At least for now, we're going to go for the simple stop. It doesn't matter what gear you are in, you can always use the brake pedal the way you are used to by pushing in the clutch first. Practice. With the car turned off and the parking brake set, rest your right foot on the gas like you be in normal driving, and put your left foot wherever you normally feel comfortable. Practice the panic stop - left foot quickly pushes the clutch to the floor and the right foot moves to the brake and presses it. You don't have to slam the clutch, put do it quickly. Practice. Again. It has to become somewhat natural. Later we will talk about using the clutch as you slow down, but for starters, always push the clutch in before touching the brake.



Let's get going: First gear



It's the moment of truth. Put your right foot on the brake and use your left foot to push the clutch all the way down. Put the gearshift in neutral. Make sure it's in neutral by wiggling it. It should wiggle side to side easily. Now turn the key and start the car. Turn off the radio, the fan, and anything else that makes noise. Slowly, let out the clutch. If at any point the car feels like it wants to move, push the clutch back to the floor: you are not in neutral. Shut down and start over.



With the engine warmed up a bit, and a clear path ahead of you, push the clutch back in and move the gearshift to first. WIth your right foot still on the brake pedal, let the clutch out slowly. You will hear the engine slow a bit and the car try to move as you let it out. You have found the point at which the clutch "catches." Push the clutch back in and take your foot off the brake, and try it again. Car still doesn't move, huh? Push the clutch back in and release the parking brake. NOW you're set.



Clutch to the floor, right foot on the gas, give the engine just a little extra gas - not much. Now slowly let the clutch come up. As you feel that catch point, the RPMs will start to drop and the car will start to move forward a bit. Slowly give it more gas to keep the RPM's constant as you let the clutch out. This is the key to the whole thing. Give it enough gas to keep the RPM's constant until the pedal is all the way out. Now push in the clutch and brake to a stop. Repeat three or four times until that "catch" point starts to feel comfortable. Never rev the engine while letting out the clutch - remember the sandpaper and the disk behind this all? It you rev the engine while letting out the clutch, you wear off the surfaces of both disks. Likewise, it you don't give it enough gas to keep the RPM's up, it will stall. Practice until it takes no more than 1.5 to 2 seconds to smoothly take the car from dead stop to clutch all the way out. The faster you can smoothly get the car going, the less wear on the clutch.



Quit stalling!



In fact, since we just mentioned stalling, let's give it a try. Warn your passenger first. Try letting the clutch out WITHOUT giving it more gas. The car starts to move, then the engine dies, and the car jerks to a start. See how effective leaving the car in first with the engine off is? It just stops moving - hard. This is why you always leave the car in first gear when you park (and use the parking brake for safety's sake).



Getting up to speed



It's time to drive around a bit. You're not going to go out of first gear, so you can stay in the parking lot. First gear is good up to about 15 MPH on most cars - don't exceed this or you will over-rev the engine. Start out in first just start driving slowly around the parking lot. Once the clutch is completely released, wind it up to about 10 miles and hour, then pull your foot off the gas. Whew - it almost throws you through the windshield. This is because engine speed and car speed are directly related, unlike in an automatic transmission where there is more "coast" in the transmission. Once you are down around 5 MPH, give it gas pretty firmly, about 3/4 of the gas pedal. Even on a small car, you'll jerk you head back hard. Again, the wonderful thing about a manual transmission is that it is directly coupled to the engine. Practice smoothly slowing down and speeding up a bit.



Drive around the parking lot in first a bit more, and as you come up to a curve, slowly take your foot off the gas while you push the clutch to the floor and coast around the curve. On the other side of the turn, start pressing the gas pedal to bring the RPM's back up and let out the clutch. The first few times the car will buck, because the engine will be going faster or slower than the transmission. Again, this is where letting the clutch out slowly comes in. As you let out the clutch, keep increasing power to the engine until the two "feel" the same speed. This takes a while to master. Your friend and owner of the car may turn a couple shades of pale here if you over-rev or let the clutch out too slowly so those two disks rub against each other too long. You want to get this down so that the clutch is completely engaged in about 1/2 a second or faster.



Just like the brake pedal, any time you are NOT using the clutch, keep your foot off of it. "Riding the clutch," even if you don't think you are putting any pressure on it, ever so slightly pulls the two plates between the engine and transmission apart. You not only get less power, but you also increase the amount of slipping that wears down the clutch faster. Clutches are very expensive to replace, especially on front wheel drive cars.



Changing gears:



If the parking lot is big enough that you can safely drive up to 35 MPH, you can try shifting in the lot, otherwise, let the car's owner take you to that deserted stretch of road you picked out earlier.

The next step is going from first gear to second. This is pretty much like when you practiced pushing in the clutch to coast around a corner except that you are going to move the shift lever from first straight down to second while you have the clutch on the floor. Let out the clutch while increasing pressure on the gas pedal just like you did earlier. Practice this on a straight area of course. Once you get into second gear, you can drive around the lot a bit. Remember, take your foot off the gas when you push in the clutch. If you don't, the engine RPM's will go way up without the load from the transmission.



At what speed should you shift to second? It depends on the car, but in general each gear has a good range:

First from 0 to 15 MPH tops

Second 3 to 25 MPH

Third 15 to 45 MPH

Fourth 30 to 65 MPH

Fifth 45 to ??? MPH

Usually you shift up when you are at the halfway to 3/4 point between the two extremes. First gear is really only to get you going. In fact, it is very easy to start the car in second gear - although don't try this until you get a good handle on the whole process as it is tougher on the disk plates.



When it is time to stop, just do like before, push in the clutch and use the brake pedal to stop. Later on we'll talk about using the engine to slow you down. For now, just keep working on making it second nature to press in the clutch and using the brake pedal when you want to stop. Always go back into first gear to start out again.



Practice 1st to 2nd quite a bit. As you get better at judging the way the engine applies power, you can get to smooth shifts while letting the clutch pedal out quite quickly. This is the goal. If you have trouble getting smooth fast shifts between 1st and 2nd, don't fret - it gets even easier in the higher gears.



While you're waiting for change:



Imagine you are at at traffic light, waiting for the light to change to green. What gear should you be in? Where should your feet be? If you expect it to be a short light, you should have your right foot on the brake, your left foot should be holding the clutch to the floor, and you should be in first gear. When the light changes to green, you can just let your foot off the brake and start like normal.



But, if the light looks like it will be a while, or for any other reason you don't think you will be moving, you should shift into neutral, and while still holding the brake pedal down with your right foot, let the clutch out. As long as the gear shift is in neutral, the car won't move or stall, or otherwise embarrass you. You should do this because having the clutch pushed in really stresses some of the moving parts. In fact, often times you can hear a whining sound when you have the clutch pushed in that goes away when you let it out. Normally a small sound is not a problem, but a very noticeable whine is a sign that the "throwout bearing" may be going bad. Pay a mechanic to fix it, because you don't want it to fail - the clutch can get quite flaky in its operation as the throwout bearing deteriates.



Stay where you are:



A little earlier we talked about the parking brake and said we'll get back to it. We're back to it now.



Many people like to use the parking brake to hold hat car still while they are waiting for a light to change or their turn at a stop sign. Whenever stopped while facing uphill, simply pull the handbrake (parking brake). Assuming your parking brake is in good condition, it should hold the car while you wait for your chance to get going again. You should still keep your right foot on the brake, and either put the car in neutral if you think it will be a long stop, or put it in first with the clutch pedal all the way down if you think you will be able to move shortly. NEVER, EVER try to hold the car on a hill by keeping the clutch in a mid-way position. You will wear it out in no time and be stuck with a large bill to replace it.



When it comes time to start moving up the hill again, make sure the clutch is depressed, put it in first gear, and hold on to the handbrake. Take your foot off the brake and start to give the engine some power while you let out the clutch, and slowly release the handbrake. Some people keep it fully engaged until they feel the clutch taking hold. It's easy to stall out this way because you're not only fighting against gravity, you're fighting against the brake, so don't hold it too long.



In time most people get used to how quickly the engine spools up and when the clutch engages, so they don't need to use the handbrake on hills. It's just a matter of moving your foot quickly off the brake pedal and onto the gas to get the engine powered up as you let your foot off the clutch. It's normal to rev the engine a bit higher (maybe 1500 RPMS) for starts on hills. Don't worry about it.



Kick it in high gear:



Now repeat the process from first, to second, to third gear. If you can master this, fourth and fifth are just the same. Drive around in third gear for a bit. Notice that letting off and punching the gas pedal doesn't have the same effect as it did in first gear. But, eventually when you let off the gas, the engine will start going so slowly that it wants to stall - around 15 MPH on a lot of cars. Give it some more gas so it doesn't stall. Notice that it doesn't have the same kind of acceleration from 15 to 25 as 2nd gear did. I won't get into it too much here, but what we're talking about is the power-band for the engine - each engine has a "sweet spot" where it accelerates best. This is why we have multiple gears. We're always trying to run the engine in the sweet spot, and depending on what speed we are going, we have to use different gears to stay within it.



Slow down a bit:



What if you want to go from 35 MPH in 3rd gear down to 20 MPH, and then cruise at 20? Just let your foot off the gas and coast down to 20, or even put your foot on the brake a bit with the clutch still all the way out. OK, I never promised you that the brake / clutch thing was an unbreakable rule, just a good one to start with. So, it is OK to slow down to 20 MPH in 3rd gear and cruise - you don't have to be in second. You won't have as much power to accelerate again while in 3rd, but it will be just fine.



And if you want to go down to 10 MPH? Simple enough, press in the clutch, use the brake pedal to slow to your preferred speed, move the shift lever to second, and let out the clutch as you match the engine speed with the gas pedal. It will be jerky the first few times as the car is often going faster than the engine, so the engine will go up in speed as you let out the clutch, even though you don't give it gas. This is called "engine braking," and is something you will want to use a little later when you have the whole normal stopping thing already mastered.



Have you ever been following a car that suddenly slowed down without its brake lights? Chances are that the driver changed to a lower gear and let the clutch out quickly, which made the engine take some of the extra momentum from the car and slowed down without the brakes. You can't use downshifting / engine braking to bring a car to a stop, but you can use it to slow down. Downshifting as you come to a traffic light is particularly useful: as you use the engine to slow you down, you are automatically in the right gear to take off again when the light changes to green.



A word about first gear. Never downshift from second gear to first while moving. Yes, you can do it and you won't really cause any damage, but it is generally not a good practice because of the potential for over-revving the engine. When you are going that slowly, and of course when you are coming to a full stop, push the clutch in and use the brake pedal. Once you stop, shift to first. And what about the downshifting in preparation for a traffic light - wouldn't it be advantageous to be in first gear when the light switches to green? Not really; first gear is just to get the car moving from a dead stop. If you are moving at all, second gear is where you want to be.



Stop and Go:



Rush hour traffic with a stick shift can be a royal pain. Clutch in, coast, clutch out. Shift up, shift down. You really get to build up those left-leg muscles. If you spend a lot of time in traffic, think seriously about whether a manual transmission car is for you. However, all that being said, always remember second gear. 2nd gear on most cars has an incredibly wide range, from near dead stop to almost 30 or 35 miles an hour. A lot of people just leave the car in 2nd and use the gas pedal to not only speed up, but also to slow down. They only use the clutch and brake pedal when the car in front of them slows down too quickly (you have to leave a little more room between yourself and the car in front of you), or when things come to a complete stop. Give it a try, it's not as hard as it sounds.



So what else do you need to know?



We've already covered starting, stopping, upshifting, downshifting, engine braking, and parking (don't forget - leave it in first gear with the parking brake on!)



Revving at stop lights. This is why you want a manual transmission, right? Just push in the clutch and rev the engine. You can do it anywhere: stop lights, cruising down the boulevard, anywhere.



Burning rubber. This is simply starting in first gear like normal, except that you take the RPM's much higher and keep them constant as you let out the clutch more slowly than normal. When you do this you are multiplying the power of the engine through the clutch, giving you more power to spin the wheels - BUT - you are also burning up clutch. Even with the multiplying effect, a chipmunk engine isn't going to spin the tires much, but you can usually get at least a good chirp out of them. The key is to get the the tires to start spinning just a bit at first, then keep giving it more power as you let out the clutch and they will keep spinning until you have the clutch all the way released and bit more.



Powershifting, grannyshifting, and double-clutching.

Powershifting is effectively shifting without fully releasing the clutch. You keep the gas pedal down while you only use about half the clutch travel to shift hard and fast. This is incredibly hard on a transmission, and in fact simply will not work on most transmissions. Without fully pushing in the clutch on most cars, you can neither pull the shifter out of gear nor put it into a new one (and it will grind as you try).

Granny shifting is when you take a slight pause in neutral between gears when shifting. So instead of going smoothly from 2nd to 3rd, you pull out of 2nd, stop for a moment in neutral along the way, then go into 3rd, and let the clutch out again. Very slow.

And double-clutching? It's like granny shifting except that you actually let the clutch out when you're in neutral, bring up the engine RPMs again, then push in the clutch and go into the next gear. And you do it all VERY fast. This was especially necessary on older cars before synchro gears smoothed the processes of changing gears in the gearbox. It is also a way to avoid grinding gears on transmissions that have been damaged by powershifting too much.



Stalling at red lights. This one is self evident. Avoid it at all costs. Nothing is more embarrassing than calling attention to yourself with big revs and a loud exhaust, then jerking to a stop when the lights change. Of course if you want to find out who your friends really are, this will certainly make them show their true colors...



Remember to have fun!


This content was originally posted on Y! Answers, a Q&A website that shut down in 2021.
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