Quote for 1970 VW Bus brake work?

Question

I was curious how much it would cost to get brake work done on a 1970 VW Bus. When I push on the brakes it takes a long time to come to a stop. I have heard this means I need new brake drums. I was curious how much it would cost a mechanic to do brake drums vs. the whole brake system. Also I was curious how hard it might be like someone who has only minor experience and a friend who works on cars to do some brake work like this. Any information would be helpful. Thanks.

Answer 1

Don't compare the braking action of a 1970 Bay Window Bus to a 2000's Chevy!



That bus has 4 drum brakes on it, and will never stop like you may expect. You need to learn that fact and learn to give yourself enough distance so you avoid problems.



The only way to know if you need new drums is to measure them. Yours are probably in need of adjusting. Unlike newer cars your brakes are not self adjusting. Each shoe must be adjusted via a star wheel. It is a simple procedure, but you have to raise each wheel off the ground and adjust using a proper tool (short screwdriver works).



You can also upgrade to disc brakes using 1971 parts. That will add power brakes to it, and give you much better stopping action. You'll still have to periodically adjust the rears.



Go to Amazon.com and buy a BENTLEY manual. That will be the best investment you can make.

Answer 2

First of all, you should never need drums.

The only reason to ever replace drums is if you have let the brakes wear down to metal so many times that they are too thin to be resurfaced.



When the pedal is low or it takes a long time to stop, the first thing you do is just adjust the brakes.

While adjusting, you can then also remove some access port plugs and see if they are too worn.

Normally you just need new shoes in the back and pads in the front.

Costs about $100 in the back and $100 in the front.



But also easy to do yourself, if you have the John Muir book on VW.

Takes less than an hour per axle, and part less then $25 per axle.



Easiest car in the world to work on, except you need a pretty large axle nut socket, 46 mm I believe. I would get a 3/4" long breaker bar from Harbor Freight. Heating it also helps. The rest is easy.



Although I could be remembering wrong, and the 1970 van could have drums on the front.

If so, then read about how to grease and adjust the front tapered bearings.

Answer 3

Hey John,

1970 is gettin up there and there's a few things you want to take a real close look at... And that's the entire brake system! Brake work on an older VW is pretty straightforward though and with the help of your friend and the Bentely manual you guys should be able to do the work. Just don't scrimp anywhere, it'll cost you in the long run.



Items you want to pay especially close attention to are the "soft" lines, rubber covered lines are likely to need replacing front and rear. Make sure and inspect the "hard" lines, steel tubing, as well for any signs of rust, kinking, leaking and abrasions. Especially any place they make contact with the body or go through a hole. When in doubt? Replace. Same thing for all the brake hardware. If it's in questionable condition? Replace it. It'll make adjusting the brakes that much easier and the brakes will operate just that much better.



It's getting harder and harder to find shops that will "turn" or machine drums and rotors nowadays, most times they just replace them. That might be the best option anyway. An older drum that's already been machined close to it's limits isn't going to dissipate heat as readily as a new drum. If you do get new drums just be sure and clean any film off of them COMPLETELY before you install them. Be sure and use a solvent that doesn't leave a film and keep yer grubby paws off the linings and the braking surface of the drum(s)!



Adjusting and bleeding the brakes properly is VERY important and can be frustrating to say the least. Figure on flushing the entire system regardless of how deep you get into it. It's likely the fluid that's in there now hasn't been flushed out in quite some time.



Don't go heading out into traffic until you've had a chance to test drive the vehicle in a really big closed area, you want to make sure the brakes work effectively without pulling or fading on you. If those tests go O.K.? STOMP on the pedal to simulate a panic stop, just be sure you're belted in, braced and there isn't anything loose to fly around the cab. You should be able to lock up the rears at the very least and ideally? The fronts as well. But be VERY VERY careful!



I'd figure on replacing just about everything from the master cylinder on out if you don't know the service history of the vehicle.



Don't forget the wheel bearings and seals, you're gonna have the thing apart anyway so go ahead do those while you're at it.



And oh yeah... Have fun but save the beers until AFTER all the work is completed and you're done with the test drive(s) Can't tell you how many vehicle repairs get totally screwed up under the influence so don't do it!

Answer 4

1970 Vw Bus

Answer 5

Qui est trailer tires??? No such thing. If somebody is looking it a trailer tire then it ordinarily lacks the belting(steel belt or nylon belt) that enables a tire to roll sideways(when cornering)and maintain it strong to preserve up the burden of the car. In different phrases a bias ply tire.(of yesteryear) if you are utilizing bias ply tires, your fuel economic system is decrease, your cornering capacity is cut down, your normal dealing with is worse and the experience is bumpier. Buy some steel belted Michelin radial tires. I found them to be the exceptional economically gasoline clever, nicer journey clever they usually final longer than majority of alternative manufacturers. The auto from the manufacturing unit have both Continental , or Dunlop or Michelin(is dependent what flavour of the week is fashionable). You're going to believe the handling difference immediately. However use what's endorsed for the van(and the advocated stress the manufacturer of the van needs in the tires) now not the tire manufacturer. It's the responsibility of the tire store not to sell you the flawed tires(that you may sue them). And you've got radial all of the method around(and the spare) you do not combine bias and radial ever. You will discover it as your stomach turns over. Early trucks(60's) had bias ply for the reason that that's what the tire producers have been as a rule making. Bias ply for $22 apiece Radials for$one hundred. Most likely I drove on bias. But then I best took it to work. And for many who don't know a van suspension can legally elevate (and is made to hold) 2200lbs(a long ton). Didn't say you were going to get wherever fast, but you would raise that. Which pickup truck does that?(in the 60's?) Ceramic tile weigh that so much. Baggage of cement. Vans drove like a box within the wind. Tremendous deal. I wasn't on the throughway. After I moved up to a seventy two van from a fifty nine loads had converted including the width(or stance). Add radial tires and there was a difference. I believe bias (trailer) tires are usually not on automobiles anymore. Simply considering the fact that of fuel financial system. Higher fuel economic system with radials.

Answer 6

brake work is very very easy to do yourself as long as its just drums. expect 100 dollars per wheel tho... thats what my car was, not too sure as to what a 70 bus will be, but shouldnt me much different seeing as though brake drums are very similar.

Answer 7

tricky problem check out onto search engines like google that will help